1884 Singer Improved Family with Wild Rose(?) Ornamentation

 

     Today I get to share a pretty special sewing machine with everyone.  It's an 1884 Singer Improved Family machine with Wild Rose(?) ornamentation.  I put a question mark after Wild Rose because after consulting with some experts it appears that this decoration is unlisted on the ISMACS and Needlebar websites and doesn't have a given name.  I think the flowers look like Wild Roses so that's what I'm going to call it! Some people have called it White Rock Rose but it doesn't look like the example of White Rock Rose and Ferns on the Needlebar website.  If anyone knows anymore about what this ornamentation should be called please let me know.  This is only one of five machines that I've seen (to date) with this decoration.  Also, this decoration has a gold base as opposed to a silver base like most later decals.  My "Floral" VS2 also has a gold base to the decorations.

    I found this machine listed for sale in on Facebook Marketplace in a town just west of Syracuse, NY.  Given that it's quite a drive to that area from south Pittsburgh, a friend from the Victorian Sweatshop offered to pick up the machine up for me.  She then graciously gave the machine a home until we met up in Williamsport PA a few weeks later to transfer the machine to me.  Once again, it's amazing how  the sewing community steps up to help one another and to help preserve these wonderful machines.

    Below are the pictures from the Marketplace ad.

     Below are some pictures that were taken on the day that the machine was picked up.  As you can see the machine was dirty and the table was neglected but amazingly the decoration on the machine had survived in very good shape.  The drawer frames on the table had come unglued and there were several areas where the veneer was delaminating.  

     Once I got the machine home, I immediately took a ton of pictures to document the condition of the machine. 

     The cleaning of the machine came first.  I started by wiping of any loose dirt with a microfiber towel.  Then I wiped the machine down with sewing machine oil several times.   From there I  disassembled the machine and cleaned all of it's mechanical parts.  I used Krud Kutter to remove most of the old dried up oil.  Then I used a sisal buffing wheel and emery compound to remove any rust.  You can see the results of this in the below pics.

     Before reassembling the machine, I resumed the final cleaning of the body of the machine.  I gently used Novus 2 polish to clean/polish the machine.  As a final step I just applied a coat of sewing machine oil.  

    Now I directed my attention to the cabinet.  My first step is to disassemble the cabinet.  I remove the top from the irons and remove the drawer frames from the top.  Once things are disassembled, I can closely assess what needs to be reglued, reveneered, etc.  In this case, the veneer on one side of each drawer frame was badly damaged and missing veneer.  Most of the time I try to avoid replacing the veneer but this time I decided reveering those parts was warranted given the damage.  I removed the veneer from the two drawer frame sides but before fitting new veneer I reglued the drawer frames to make them structurally sound. To do this, I used Old Brown Glue due it's reversability in case something doesn't go right in the regluing process.  Once the drawer frames were repaired it was time to reveneer the sides.  Below are some pictures of that process.  

      In the two pictures above, mineral spirits was wiped on the new veneer to get a general idea of what the color of the wood would be with just a clear coat on the bare wood.  Obviously, some coloring was going to be needed!

     Next I turned my attention to the table top.  I use a special cocktail of products to clean/revive the wood.  I apply this by scrubbing with green scotchbrite pad then wiping the excess liquid(and dirt) off.  Below are pictures of the results.  

     If the remaining clear coat is not even you might have to remove it before applying a new clear coat otherwise your clear coat won't lay evenly.  I didn't need to do that with this cabinet but if I did it would have been done with denatured alcohol and a green scotchbrite pad....scrubing gently and removing the liquified shellac with paper towels.  It's important to try not to remove the color of the wood when doing this. 

     After the top has been cleaned, any coloring can be done to match the pieces of wood (including the drawer frames, drawers, and lid).  I use spray toner to do this but try to keep coloring to a minimum.  I usually do any coloring to the top first.  That way I can color match the reveneered parts to the top.

   After any coloring is complete the parts can be clearcoated.  For this project, I made my own oil based wiping varnish.  It was easy to apply and I think the results came out pretty good.  This was applied with a blue shop towel and then the excess was removed a clean blue shop towel.  

    Once dry all of the parts can be reassembled.  To ease assembly, I put toilet bowl ring wax on the thread of all the wood screws.  Below are some pictures of all the pieces put back together. 

     I cleaned the irons the way I always do.  I first clean them using non-pumice Gojo scubbing with a toothbrush.  Once clean, I wipe them down with sewing machine oil.  If the gold on the irons needs to be redone I use Rub N' Buff applied with my finger....but I was amazed at how well the gold paint was preserved on these irons!  I did nothing to touch them up.  Below are some before and after pics of the irons.

     Once the irons were clean it was time to put everything back together!  Below are the final results!  The machine sews like a dream (as most IF's do)!  Enjoy the pics!